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THE SOUTH FORK

By CARLA SPARTOS

Crab cakes at Kobe.
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May 17, 2008

THE Hamptons dining scene may be glamorous and star-studded, but innovative? Not so much. And with most of this season's newcomers falling into the steakhouse or rustic Italian categories, don't expect that to change any time soon. From prime ribs to pasta, here are the new kids on the block:

Surf Lodge

183 Edgemere St., Montauk, (631) 238-5190; opens Memorial Day weekend

Sam Talbot of "Top Chef" fame will cook a seafood-heavy roster of dishes - think peekytoe crab with marinated nectarines and summer corn - at this chic remake of the Lakeside Inn. "It's not gonna be kitschy by any means," promises Talbot. "This is showtime."

Kobe Beach Club

44 Three Mile Island Rd., East Hampton; no phone yet; opens June

Jeffrey Chodorow is transforming the old Resort space into a spinoff of his over-the-top Manhattan chophouse. Expect similarly dramatic decor and a menu that pairs surf with all that pricey turf.

Oso Steakhouse

91 Hill St., Southhampton, (631) 283-1166; opens Monday

This affordable new steakhouse in the Southampton Inn is helmed by chef Peter Dunlop, formerly of the American Hotel in Sag Harbor, whose entrees will hover in the mid-$20s and top out at $39 for a 32-ounce porterhouse. The restaurant's name means "bear" in Spanish, a nod to both the menu's Mediterranean influences and the current state of the market, says owner Dede Gotthelf.

Almoncello

290 Montauk Highway, East Hampton, (631) 329-6700

Almondito's vibrant, fiesta-like decor has been banished to make way for this more rustic Northern Italian eatery with a focus on slow-cooked meats, homemade pastas and wines from the Boot.

GRAPPA Wine Bar

62 Main St., Sag Harbor, (631) 725-0055; opens June

The wine bar craze hits the East End with this Italian redo of the kiddie Cajun restaurant Mumbo Gumbo. The global wine list will emphasize bottles from the North Fork - with some 50 pours available by the glass.

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